jeudi 15 mars 2007

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Le chemin que nous empruntons pour sillonner les étals du marché des Lices varie d'un samedi à l'autre. Mais, au gré des saisons et des envies, certaines étapes demeurent ; et pour celles que nous avons besoin d'oublier un temps, nos pas finissent toujours, presque malgré nous, par les retrouver quelques semaines ou quelques mois plus tard. Au nombre des adresses qui connaissent notre bonne figure, on compte celle de Roland Lécrivain. Entre autres qualités, il est paraît-il le pionnier de la réutilisation en agriculture laitière de la Froment du Léon, une vache dont le lait particulièrement savoureux donne un beurre réputé. Comme avons l'incorrigible habitude de tout faire pour ne rien faire comme tout le monde, ce n'est pas de son beurre que nous nous régalons, mais de sa crème crue, un petit miracle, si onctueuse qu'une plume d'oie suffirait à la transformer en une chantilly d'une légèreté, d'un mousseux et d'un fondant absolument inégalables. Il fut un temps -qui reviendra, n'en doutons pas- où nous étions particulièrement friands de ses yaourts, accompagnés de sirop d'érable ou de butterscotch sauce par exemple. Leur principal attrait, outre leur fermeté soyeuse, est la fine couche de crème or pâle qui recouvre chacun d'eux ; sitôt goûtée l'on déplore qu'elle ait si vite disparu sous l'assaut de notre gourmandise. Bien que les vaches ne pondent pas encore d'oeufs, M. Lécrivain en vend, et ce sont souvent ceux-là que les petits doigts enchantés de Patoumi transforment en succulents gâteaux.
Sur le côté de cette première halle, où loge le temps du samedi matin M. Lécrivain, courent les étals des maraîchers biologiques. Si nous y faisons parfois halte au hasard pour acheter mâche, butternut ou potimarron, nous nous arrêtons surtout au stand de légumes biologiques de l'île de Batz, tenu par Bénédicte Menon. Outre de délicieux choux, verts ou fleur, on y trouve de beaux légumes rouges - oignons rouges et pommes de terres insulaires, à la chair ferme et sucrée -en saison nous ne repartons jamais du marché sans une livre de chaque.
Lorsqu'on suit la pente naturelle de la place des Lices, on se retrouve immanquablement au bas de la deuxième halle (M. Lécrivain se trouvant dans la première) plus particulièrement dévolue aux produits carnés. Immédiatement en contrebas de sa dernière porte, presque face à celle de l'hôtel des ventes se tient une dame dont j'ignore le nom, mais qui vend tout au long de l'année des herbes aromatiques. Nous venons surtout lui rendre visite au retour des beaux jours, car elle y vend des tomates cerises de toutes les couleurs, si douces -et pourtant bien fermes- que l'on saisit dans l'instant toute la légitimité de l'appartenance de la tomate à la catégorie fruits (ce dont les monstruosités pâles, acides et farineuses que l'on goûte parfois peuvent un temps faire douter). Cette dame offre également à la même saison un basilic très aromatique qui relève et orne volontiers nos plats et tartines.
Nous voilà donc en bas des Lices ; le marché se termine, peut-être évoquerai-je une autre fois d'autres étals que nous y fréquentons, mais pour l'heure, nous sommes arrivés à un carrefour qui a beaucoup compté pour moi il fut un temps, puisque se faisaient face, à l'époque et par un hasard étrange, l'appartement de Patoumi et le cabinet de mon psychanalyste. Ceci dans une époque reculée, avant qu'il ne nous soit devenu totalement impossible de se passer l'un de l'autre, et que nous décidions de nous installer en ce lieu d'où j'écris aujourd'hui, refuge feutré à la vue plus grandiose. Au bas de cet appartement antérieur dont nous ne croisons plus maintenant que la façade, se trouve encore une boulangerie (l'Artisan du pain) où nous faisons parfois un saut pour en ramener une boule campaillette dont la mie dense, fraîche et blanc cassé me ravit particulièrement -ceci étant une infidélité à notre habituelle Boulangerie Hoche. Si l'on n'est pas un lève-tôt, il est inutile de prétendre croquer cette mie le samedi au terme du marché, celle-ci étant depuis longtemps déjà épuisée quand approche l'heure de midi. L'autre dimension intéressante de ce carrefour est qu'il ouvre la rue Nantaise qui, outre le fait de rejoindre la tour Jehan Duchesne, est également un repaire de restaurateurs -pas tous très fréquentables il faut bien le dire. Plus d'éléments dans le prochain billet...

Roland Lécrivain, Marché des Lices, et Ferme du Haut-Bourg
35210 Combourtillé 02 99 97 50 31
Légumes Biologiques de l'île de Batz, Bénédicte Menon, Marché des Lices
L'artisan du pain 22 rue Nantaise 35000 Rennes 02 99 31 43 67

Posté par G.

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