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Al piccolo ristorante, Bayonne, dîner du Vendredi 23 Février 2007

L'après-midi, alors que nous passons rue d'Espagne, peu après avoir fait emplettes à la librairie l'Alinéa, Patoumi tombe en arrêt devant une enseigne de restaurant. Je lève les yeux : Al piccolo ristorante. Nous examinons la carte.
Deux heures plus tard, dans notre coquette chambre de l'hôtel Beaulieu, atermoiements : où manger ce soir ? C'est le dernier soir et, désespoir, nous avons deux restos en lice. Le Nem et son crispy pork, ses plats thaïs et khmers, et Al Piccolo Ristorante de tout à l'heure et sa verrine de caviar d'aubergine au pesto et grissini au jambon de Parme, ses conchiglie à la crème de poivron et au chèvre, ses penne rigate aux aubergines et aux cèpes, son tiramisu fruits rouges basilic et enfin son crumble banane-citron vert-caramel. Je rechigne intérieurement à prendre la voiture sous cette pluie battante pour aller jusqu'au centre de Bayonne alors que nous avons un restaurant à moins de 200 mètres, mais, c'est terrible, au fond, après interminables palabres sur les mérites comparés de la proximité du riz sauté et de l'éloignement dramatique des tagliatelles, nous avons l'un et l'autre un désir fou pour... des pâtes. Nous ne savons même pas si le resto est ouvert ce soir, trouver une place rique de relever de l'exploit, je songe à l'aqua planning qui menace les frêles roues de ma 106 dans la tempête qui s'annonce, et dont témoignent les lames monstrueuses qui ravagent les rochers à nos pieds, mais non, il n'y a rien qui puisse lutter contre notre envie de pâtes ; je vois des conchighlie dégoulinantes de sauce onctueuse ruisseler dans le regard de Patoumi. Projection de ma part ou débordement du désir de Patoumi ? Peu importe, nous sommes décidés. Nous démarrons.
On imaginera sans peine l'inquiétude de Patoumi et G. tout au long du chemin, devant la perspective d'un possible flop : porte close, averse, jeans trempés, sans compter la faim et la route à faire pour revenir piteux et mouillés au Nem.
Mais non. Nous voilà dans un charmant petit espace aux boiseries rouge sombre et au crépis jaune soleil, assis sur de petites chaises de bois avec devant nous, une nappe basquo-bayadère et une ardoise chargée de petits mots doux aux consonnances italiennes.
Pour ma part, j'ai craqué pour la verrine sus-citée. La base est une alternance de couches de caviar d'aubergine et d'une sorte de pesto à base de tomates sechées et je présume, de crème fraîche. Entre ces couches se promènent de petits morceaux de tomates séchées, de mozzarella et de basilic. L'effet est parfaitement réussi, bien relevé, onctueux sans être gras, plutôt sur la fraîcheur et une pointe d'acidité. Pour la tempérer, les deux petits gressins qui surplombent l'assemblage sont enveloppés comme de petits flambeaux par du jambon de Parme, association subtile qui donne du croquant et du salé sur la souplesse et le crémeux de la verrine. Très réussi.
Je passe sur le verre de Lacrima Christi que je tenterai d'oublier tout au long du repas au moyen de ma San Pellegrino : parti sur un arome un peu -comment dire ?- comme de moisi ou de pipi de souris (non, je n'y vais pas avec le dos de la cuillère!) son séjour dans mon verre l'a révélé être simplement plat, fade et inintéressant. Aucun intérêt de ce côté là, voire tout au plus une pointe de déplaisir.
Patoumi quant à elle a eu la bonne idée de choisir un velouté de carottes au gingembre et au pain d'épices. De prime abord, superbe. Quoi, une soupe, superbe ? Parfaitement, car servie -je suis un peu obsédé par la vaisselle en ce moment- dans un petit bol carré en porcelaine blanche, avec de minuscules anses japonisantes -mignon comme tout. Sur la petite assiette coordonnée ou repose ce petit bijou de vaisselle, de petits cubes de pain d'épice façon croutons. Le velouté est succulent : onctueux, bien relevé -le gingembre est discret- dominent la carotte et le pain d'épice. L'écueil de l'écoeurant et du douceâtre qui menace l'association carotte-pain d'épice est magistralement évité. Nous sommes aux anges avec nos deux entrées.
Petite pause toilettes. On pensera ce qu'on voudra d'une évocation de pause pipi au milieu d'un repas, mais l'équation toilettes pourries=resto pourri étant de longue date une équation vérifiée et vérifiable je me permets d'en dire deux mots. (Certes, certes, il y a des exceptions à cette équation, je détaillerais les diverses variantes du théorème des toilettes de resto dans les prochains messages, soit par l'expérience) . D'autant que ici, on peut dire que l'équation toilettes est pour le moins particulière. Pas qu'il y ait quoi que ce soit à redire sur leur propreté : elles sont nickel, mieux : elles sont neuves. Bleues et jaunes, si l'on veut savoir, ce qui fait un pendant charmant et frais à la chaleur des rouges et jaunes piquants et pimpants de la salle (quel voyage !). Mais avant de les atteindre, il faut traverser pas moins que la cuisine, et la remise. Ce qui fait, effet qui n'est pas des plus heureux, que l'on voit les matières premières utilisées (des feuilles de lasagnes Panzani par exemple) et que l'on se lave les mains dans la cuisine, à côté de la casserole de velouté de carottes. Rassurez vous, tout ceci est d'une propreté irréprochable, et comme la cuisine est excellente, on pardonne volontiers que les produits ne soient pas des plus luxueux (les prix à la carte sont à l'avenant). Si je n'avais pas vu, peut-être n'aurais-je pas (tout) deviné ?
J'ai longuement hésité avant de choisir l'osso bucco, puisque, comme chacun sait, de par sa maîtrise de l'oeuvre de Laura Zavan, Patoumi est une experte en osso bucco. Je l'ai finalement choisi puisque ici il est alla Genovese, c'est à dire al tonno, le thon étant ici une alternative aux anchois qui a excité ma curiosité. Réussi, pour le moins. Bien fondus, les légumes sont bien relevés. Le thon ne se sent pas, mais en même temps il ne donne pas le caractère que les anchois confèrent au plat. La viande est bien cuite, mais une petite heure de plus n'aurait pas déparé pour sa tendreté sous ma dent. Bon, les pâtes, je ne les ai pas vues dans la réserve, mais on goûte bien que ce ne sont ni des Barilla, ni des De Cecco. Ce qui ne constitue pas franchement une gêne majeure, puisque la dominante est sur veau et légumes. Patoumi m'assure que ce sont des linguine, et moi je l'assure que je préfère son osso bucco à elle, bien que je me régale avec celui-ci. Un type dans la salle nous laisse entendre un "C'est meilleur que chez ma mère". Ca parle tout seul.
Pour finir, bien que Patoumi ait eu une certaine réticence car elle avait vu préparer ce dessert avec des matières premières, disons, de grossiste en alimentation (le riz soufflé et la chantilly, en tous cas), nous avons choisi le Capuccino au chocolat au lait. Oui, Patoumi a vu, parce qu'on voit en permanence ce qui se passe dans la cuisine, vu que seul un demi rideau sépare la salle de la cuisine. Ce dessert n'a à vrai dire de cappucino que le nom. En vérité, c'est une gelée au café (j'imagine, gélatine plus café soluble) surmontée d'une mousse au chocolat au lait (à base de crème fouettée, pas d'oeufs), avec entre chaque couche les fameux grains de riz soufflé, et un topping de chantilly. C'est très bon, ça fait penser à des verrines que Patoumi avait préparé en s'inspirant d'une recette de Laurent Schott -mais dans sa recette c'est mousse chocolat sur gelée de fruits-, ici les fruits remplacés par le café résonnent bien sur le chocolat au lait et le petit croc-croc du riz soufflé est du meilleur effet. Bien sûr j'aurais préféré une chantilly maison mais je concède qu'une crème crue battue dans un frigo de resto, c'est pas commode.
Bref, nous nous sommes régalés, pour un prix somme toute très correct, qu'ils peuvent proposer, on le sait maintenant, du fait des matières premières que la qualité de la préparation parvient bien à rattrapper. Je mets 13 sur 20, ce que je considère comme une bonne note.

Al Piccolo Ristorante, 63 rue d'Espagne, 64100 Bayonne
05 59 59 54 87

Librairie l'Alinéa, 20 rue d'Espagne, 64100 Bayonne
05 59 59 01 91


Posté par G.

62 commentaires:

Blogger Ester a dit...

Cher G., je suis toute contente d'inaugurer les commentaires sur votre blog commun, à Patoumette et à toi. Quelle belle idée. Quelle chouette critique de resto. Et surtout, surtout : je souscris à 100% au théorème des toilettes...
Je souhaite vous lire souvent !

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Ah les macarons de chez Adam ! Il n'y a pas grand chose de meilleur.

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